A Recipe Memory - Cold Green Soup

We arrived after a sweaty hour of riding in theis just wilted. Add the shredded leaves to the
sun baked old Chrysler. The luxury of riding in aironion and stir to wilt. Add the water and salt and
conditioned style was still a few years off for ourcover. Bring the pot to a boil and simmer 10
family. I was ten years old and Dad was on aminutes
quest. The dust cloud raised by driving down theHere is where her instructions take on a clear
unpaved road engulfed our car when we stopped.egalitarian tone. The rest of the ingredients are
I opened my door to the mid-day sun and closedused at the makers discretion as to quantity or
my eyes to the brightness and sting of dry blackeven addition itself.
dirt swirling around me. Like I said, Dad was on a1-2 large Lemons, for juice
mission. The driver's door slammed shut and he2-6 Tbsp. Sugar
was halfway to the worn whitewashed farm3-6 large Egg Yolks
stand before I could open my eyes again. His huntAdd the lemon juice and sugar in small quantities
for "Sour Grass" or "Schav" (Fresh Sorrel) wasuntil you get the right level of tartness. The soup
endless.without lemon will have a straight on tart/bitter
It started in Chicago when he was a young manflavor. The addition of both the lemon and the
and continued years later when he semi-retired tosugar help with balance and palatability.
Palm Springs, California. His quest was as alive atThe egg yolks will add a slight thickness and
the farm stands and markets of Riverside Countychange the murky seaweed like color of the soup
and the Imperial Valley as it was on that dustyto a murky seaweed color against a slightly
Midwest road. Today, French sorrel as we knowgolden hue. A subtle difference for some, but for
it, is relatively easy to find. It appears in upscaleour house it was always Schav with egg. Beat the
markets, trendy restaurants and the pages ofegg yolks in a large bowl until completely smooth
fashionable food magazines. In fact, it wasn't untiland slightly frothy. Add a ladle full of boiling soup
many years after our visit to that roadside standto the egg while stirring. Do this twice more, then
that I finally made the connection of sour grasspour the egg mix back into the boiling soup. Stir
to sorrel. I was cooking in a French restaurant andconstantly until it just comes back to a boil.
the Chef was showing me his recipe for theImmediately remove the soup from the heat and
classic French Sorrel Soup.cool. Can be held safely for up to 4 days with the
After my first taste I blurted out to theegg (though it was always gone before that at
amazement of the kitchen staff around me,our house). Add the egg later if you want to keep
"that's Schav". The Chef looked at me withit longer.
wrinkled brow and asked, "What's chev?". HisDiced Cucumber
accent making it sound more like a car than theDiced Radish
holy grail of my father.Diced Very Green New Dill Pickles
MOM'S SCHAV BORSCHT (COLD SORREL SOUP)Hot Boiled Potato
With a little help from her mother-in-lawSour Cream.
Makes enough for a lovely cold dinner for 4 and aThe above list of ingredients are the necessary
few quarts more to keep in the fridgeadditions for Schav served as or with a light meal.
2 lbs. Schav; (sorrel leaves)To serve, have the sour cream, diced cucumber,
1/4 cup Corn oilpickle and radish in small bowls on the table. Place
1 cup Onion, minceda whole boiled potato in the center of a flat soup
3 quarts Cold Waterplate and top with cold Schav. Let your guests
1 Tbsp. Kosher Saltgarnish as they please. Dad would add it all...so that
Wash the sorrel very well in two to threewas the way I had to have it. He would always
changes of water. Best way to make sure youaccompany this meal with stories of his mother
get all the sand ( though that was always aand her legendary cold suppers on the farm
special little gift in Mom's Schav) is to swirl theusually made up of Schav, pickled fish and some
leaves in a sink full of water then let it rest forsort of beet concoction that she would leave on
about 2 minutes. Lift the leaves from the waterthe porch to ferment for days before serving.
to a colander on a drain board. This will give theAny leftover cold Schav should be kept in screw
dirt a chance to settle away from the leaves andtop quart bottles on the door of the fridge for
by lifting them you won't be pouring them backquick stolen gulps on hot summer days. A sad
through the leaves. When the leaves are clean,note about this soup is that as I got older and
remove any large stems. Roll a bunch of leaves inMom and Dad got busier working, the sorrel was
a tight bundle, then slice through the bundle toreplaced with frozen chopped spinach. An
make fine shreds.adequate substitute, but there were no dusty
Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven and add theroad adventures to find it.
onion, sauté over med heat until the onion