Adventure in the Grand Canyon - Rim to River to Rim Hike

Usually when I drive between California andand was no problem with trekking poles. I saw
Minnesota, I am on a tight schedule and don'tmany hikers who were doing it in running shoes
have any time for sightseeing. I normally makeand no poles.
the trip in two long days, with an overnight stopI started down the trail at 9:45 am, and shortly
in Denver to see my son. However this time Ipassed a mule train heading down as well. I
had about 10 days to make the trip fromfigured if it was safe enough to take tourists
Minnesota to Los Angeles. After spending a fewdown on mules, it couldn't be too bad. It was
days in Colorado Springs, I headed south and thenvery beautiful with the fresh snow on the red
was planning on going to the Grand Canyon viarocks. On our backpacking trip, we had gone
US Highway 160. I wanted to enjoy the backdown the Kaibab Trail, and come up the Bright
roads instead of taking the freeway, but when IAngel Trail, because of the different direction, and
checked on road conditions with the sheriff'safter all the years, it all seemed new to me.
department, they said the road was icy, alongBesides doing the hike for fun, I was training for
with blowing snow. The head wind was also somy Pacific Crest Trail hike that was coming up in
strong I couldn't even go 50 mph in high gear!about 45 days. I also had my new backpack and
I ended up going further south and still had someother new gear that I was trying out for the hike.
snow and poor roads going to Taos, New Mexico,I always like to hike fast, and not knowing how
but made it OK. I was expecting that campinglong it would take to do the round trip, I set off
might be more expensive there being it was aat a good pace and must have passed over 50
tourist area, and was driving through town lookingday hikers on the way down.
for some place to spend the night when I saw aI got to the ranger station at Phantom Ranch at
Wal-Mart store. I went in to get some milk for12:50, and went in to check on conditions of the
breakfast and when I came out I noticed someKaibab Trail. There I met two young female
motor homes that looked like they were spendingrangers who said they had just come down the
the night in the parking lot. I knocked on the doorKaibab trail, with crampons, and they said I should
of one of them and asked about parking for thehave them to go up, as it was slippery. I stopped
night there. They told me that almost alland ate lunch and tried to decide what to do. If I
Wal-Marts allow you to "camp" free in theirwent up the Kaibab and encountered icy
parking lots over night. As I was planning onconditions once I got the snow near the top, it
sleeping in my car anyway, a Honda CRV, itwould be too late to go back down to the river
worked out great.and go back up the Bright Angel Trail. I really
In the morning I had to detour south again to getdidn't think the trail would be any worse than the
to the Grand Canyon because the direct routeone I had just come down, so decided to give it a
was closed due to snow. By the time I got backtry, and started up at 1:25 pm. After crossing the
up to the main route it appeared to be open. IBlack Bridge, I soon met a young couple that was
arrived at the Canyon about 7:30 at night and thecoming down so I asked them how the trail was;
east entrance was open, but the pay booth wasthey said it was no problem, even without
closed - so I didn't have to pay the $20 entrancecrampons or trekking poles.
fee! I spent the night at the campgrounds andMy pack was light and I had done some training
was planning on being at the trailhead at sunrisehikes while in Minnesota, as well as on Pike's Peak,
but overslept, I didn't wake up until 7:30!so I was feeling good, and again set a fast pace
The last time I had been at the Grand Canyon,going up, using my trekking poles to help pull
was about eight or nine years before, on my firstmyself up the trail. The weather was great for a
backpacking trip. A group from the singles class athard workout, just cool enough that I didn't get
my church had gone there on a three-day hiketoo hot going up. The trail was great until the last
down to Phantom Ranch and back. We were allfew miles, when it turned muddy and slushy, but
carrying way too much food and lots of clothes,the sun had melted the snow enough that I didn't
expecting it to be cold. There had been an earlyhave to worry about any icy spots. Keeping an
heat wave, and we were cooking on the wayeye on my watch and the rim at the top of the
back up. After really getting into hiking after that,canyon, I began to think I could make it up in
I had always wanted to go back and do theabout the same time it took going down, so I
same hike as a day hike, but hadn't had thekept pushing. I was delighted when I reached the
chance until now.top and saw that I had made it up in 2:55, 10
I checked at the information center and theminutes quicker than going down the Bright Angel
ranger said the trails were very icy, and not toTrail, which is a mile shorter.
try them without crampons. When I said IKnowing that I would need all the conditioning I
wanted to go to the river and come back up thecould get before the PCT hike, I decided to walk
same day, he said it was too far. Not wanting toback to my car, which was near the Bright Angel
spend $10 for the cheap crampons, as I had goodTrailhead. I was very happy with this choice as I
ones waiting for me in Minnesota, I was gladfollowed the trail along the rim on the way back,
when the store said they were out of them. Ofthe views were beautiful with the fresh snow,
course, I still wanted to do the hike, so decided toand I was able to get some nice pictures.
check out the Bright Angel trail and see how badI had never been to Hoover Dam, so even
it was. Another ranger saw me heading towardsthough it was quite a bit longer going that way, I
the trailhead and told me I needed crampons. Iheaded back up north to see that, rather than
thought he might be right at first, because thetaking the direct route to Los Angeles. I also
sidewalk there was very icy from hard packedfound a nice place to camp near there and got
snow. However when I got on the actual trail, itsome more hiking in around there, so it was an
was just firm snow, not even packed that hard,enjoyable finish to the trip.