| Wine has been made in Europe and the | | | | almost mystical idea, layered on top of whatever |
| Mediterranean world for thousands of years. It is | | | | appellation system is in operation in different parts |
| so much a part of the local cultures that every | | | | of the world. But in France there are many rules |
| aspect of its production and consumption is | | | | that go along with the AOC zones that make all |
| entrenched in tradition. The idea that a wine | | | | the wines from a particular place share many |
| should taste a certain way because of where it's | | | | characteristics. The same is not true of American |
| made is a European idea, one that has been | | | | AVAs. |
| around since ancient days. This traditional idea of | | | | Think of the Russian River Valley for instance, a |
| "local taste" is a fundamental difference between | | | | place in northern California that could fit many |
| Old World and New World culture. In Europe you | | | | times over into the French region of Bordeaux. |
| eat local food and drink the local wine but, in | | | | There are well over one hundred wineries in the |
| America, it doesn't matter where you are, you | | | | Russian River AVA producing well lover 1000 |
| can always get a hamburger and a coke, and the | | | | individual wines. Selecting one of the producers, |
| taste never deviates. | | | | Dry Creek Valley Winery as an example, they |
| At least as far back as ancient Greece wines | | | | make Cabernet, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, |
| were identified and valued by location of | | | | Chenin Blanc and Zinfandel. They also make |
| production. Some were said to be particularly | | | | "Bordeaux Blends", which refers to a red wine |
| good and others as not so good. The Portuguese | | | | made from the same grape types used in the |
| were the first to create a legally recognized | | | | Bordeaux AOCs of France. The wine making is |
| growing zone for wine grapes in the late 18th | | | | not controlled by the government to any large |
| Century, to control and protect the production of | | | | extent. Russian River wine makers can use oak |
| their famous Port wines. It was the French who | | | | barrels or not. They can harvest at any time they |
| really set to work organizing wine production | | | | choose and in whatever volume they are capable |
| zones in the 1930's. As the vineyards were | | | | of. They can age the wine before its release, or |
| recovering from the phylloxera infestation that | | | | not at all. |
| nearly destroyed the wine industry of France, it | | | | The Bordeaux AOC in France is a much larger |
| was decided that the most famous wines needed | | | | place with many more than a thousand producers |
| to be more regulated and protected in order to | | | | and a volume of production that would flood the |
| thrive once again. | | | | Russian River. But, as has been pointed out |
| The French thus created the appellation system. | | | | above, a French wine maker must follow many |
| An appellation is a delimited geographical zone. The | | | | more rules, from the vineyard and its |
| best French wines were in very short supply in | | | | management right through to the wine making |
| the 1920's and 30's but poor quality bulk wines | | | | and the aging of the wine before sale. In the vast |
| from southern France and Algeria had taken over | | | | region of Bordeaux all the red wines are made |
| to fill the gap. These cheap wines were co-opting | | | | from a blend of the same three or four grape |
| famous names and in some cases being | | | | types and all the white wines are blended from |
| distributed as if they were the famous wines. | | | | the same one or two. In many Chateaux, as the |
| Laws passed in the first twenty years of the | | | | Bordeaux wineries are called, just one or two |
| century were aimed at eliminating this fraud, then | | | | different wines are produced each vintage. |
| the French began to create AOC; Appellation | | | | It is obvious from this comparison that the wines |
| d'Origine Controlee. The idea was to certify that | | | | of Bordeaux should have more in common with |
| wines with a famous name were actually | | | | one-another than even the wines of a small spot |
| produced in the particular place their name | | | | on the map like Russian River. And it is also clear |
| identified. Chateauneuf du Pape, a wine growing | | | | that just the words "Russian River" on a bottle of |
| area in the southern Rhone valley, became one of | | | | wine tells you very little about the wine, while the |
| the first recognized AOC wine appellations. | | | | word "Bordeaux" tells you quite a bit. |
| The system matured through its first decade | | | | This is the main reason why European labels |
| under the direction of the INAO, the Institute | | | | rarely mention grape type. Grape type can be |
| National des Appellation d'Origine, which took it's | | | | assumed if you know what grapes are grown in a |
| lead from Baron le Roy in Chateauneuf. The | | | | certain region or AOC. The grape type has to be |
| Baron had recognized that it was important to | | | | pointed out on a California wine because so many |
| specify more than just where a wine is produced, | | | | grapes can be used, you'd have no way to know |
| but also how and from what. Modern INAO rules | | | | otherwise. It's also clear that an American AVA |
| govern everything from where a named wine can | | | | does not mean the same thing as a European |
| be made, what grape types can be used, how | | | | AOC, an Italian DOC or a German QbA. |
| ripe the grapes must be at harvest and how | | | | This is not to say that the place of the grape's |
| alcoholic the wine must be, as well as the | | | | growth, and the location of the wine making has |
| maximum yield that can be harvested and even | | | | no impact on the finished aroma and flavor of a |
| the number of individual vines that can be planted. | | | | California (or Australian, or South African ...) wine. |
| Lot's of rules. | | | | The wine grape is an agricultural product and |
| The return to prominence of the great French | | | | weather, vineyard conditions and wine making |
| wines over the following decades was enough to | | | | practices all contribute to the final result. But, |
| convince every other wine making nation to | | | | we've been at the wine making game for only a |
| adopt a similar system. The Italians have their | | | | couple hundred years, the Europeans have had |
| DOC zones, the Spanish and Portuguese have | | | | much more experience. It seems premature for a |
| DO, the Germans have QbA and in America we | | | | California wine maker to declare that his wine |
| have AVA, "American Viticultural Areas". The | | | | expresses the "terroir of its vineyard site." How |
| French system is the most detailed and offers | | | | does he know? It seems natural, given the length |
| the best guide to what a consumer should expect | | | | of the centuries, that expectations for individual |
| from any of its various wines. But the INAO's | | | | wines and styles should be more established in |
| numerous rules are also a break on | | | | Europe than in the New World. |
| experimentation and freedom of expression. The | | | | Some grape types have found a home in New |
| rules were not drawn up to encourage the best | | | | World vineyards. Napa Cabernet, Russian River |
| possible development of French viticulture but to | | | | Zinfandel, Carneros Chardonnay, Willamette Valley |
| protect current practices. Although they are | | | | (Oregon) Pinot Noir, Finger Lakes (New York) |
| constantly being revised the AOC rules are | | | | Riesling and Columbia Valley (Washington) Syrah |
| perhaps limiting France's competitiveness in the | | | | are some noteworthy examples. Given time, we |
| new global wine market. | | | | may get to the point of having grape types |
| Speaking of the new global wine market the | | | | securely associated with AVAs but probably |
| question arises; does an AVA in California carry | | | | never to the extent that France has established. |
| the same cache as an AOC in France? The | | | | Knowing where a wine comes from is still helpful. |
| French clearly believe that location is important | | | | Different grape types respond differently to cool |
| and that rules must be established. Do we feel | | | | or warm climates, to mountain or coastal zones, |
| the same way, and do our appellation rules assure | | | | to places with regular rain fall or more arid places. |
| wine quality in the same way? | | | | Paying attention to this detail will help you |
| Geographically based wine making systems | | | | understand your wine and understand what to |
| assume that a wine made in a particular spot | | | | expect from it before you've opened it. |
| should taste a particular way. The French have a | | | | Hopefully, this relationship of place to grape and |
| phrase for this concept, as you might expect. It is | | | | wine will encourage you to appreciate the |
| gout de terroir, "taste of the earth". Wine makers | | | | differences between European wine and New |
| all over the world are today claiming their wine | | | | World wine, and to fully explore both. |
| expresses its terroir. Terroir has become an | | | | |