| To savour the secrets of Europe's cities and seek | | | | leatherwork, toys and glass, jewellery, dolls and |
| out their history, nothing beats a river cruise. And | | | | teddies. Two tiny restaurants serve local |
| for sheer romance laced with eons of rich history, | | | | specialties. The Craftsmen's Corner is open |
| nothing beats the Danube. | | | | year-round but the city is also justly famed for its |
| Europe's second longest river, meandering 2,850 | | | | Christmas market, which features all of the |
| km. across the continent from its source in | | | | above and more. |
| Germany's Black Forest Mountains to the Black | | | | Regensburg, just downstream, was almost |
| Sea, visits nine countries - Germany, Austria, | | | | untouched by the war. A UNESCO World Heritage |
| Slovakia, Hungary, Croatia, Serbia, Bulgaria, | | | | Site, its roster of delights begins with a river-front |
| Romania and Ukraine and a full Danube cruise may | | | | Roman fort built in 179. Once the capital of |
| take you to most or all of them. | | | | Bavaria, Regensburg's wealthy past is reflected in |
| It's an experience totally unlike an ocean cruise. | | | | its splendid town houses built in the Italian style in |
| Sleek and slim, the ships are built to fit the river's | | | | the 14th century, and its fine Gothic cathedral, |
| requirements -- small ports, low, ancient bridges, | | | | built in 1634, with soaring twin spires added in |
| and sometimes shallow water. Yet passengers | | | | 1869. |
| are often amazed at the level of luxury the ships | | | | Now it's on to Passau and a short bus ride to |
| offer - compact but well appointed staterooms, | | | | Salzburg. Lavish costumes and Mozart-style wigs |
| nightly entertainment and good food. Buffets at | | | | are much in evidence here, as the town |
| breakfast and lunch and full table service at dinner | | | | commemorates its most famous son, Wolfgang |
| provide excellent and copious meals with myriad | | | | Amadeus Mozart and its most famous film, The |
| choices for picky eaters or people on special diets. | | | | Sound of Music. Another highlight is the famed |
| In fact, diets were severely tested by the | | | | Salzburg Festival, an annual banquet of outstanding |
| variety of desserts and between-meal treats. | | | | music. A visit to Mozart's home, now an |
| A resident pianist entertained frequently while | | | | interesting museum, is a must for music lovers. |
| special evening programs ranged from a Gypsy | | | | The city itself is a walker's delight with ancient |
| band to folk dancers to a quartet of classical | | | | buildings lining narrow streets but some of the |
| singers. And the genial approachability of | | | | prettiest horses and carriages are a temptation to |
| Symphony Captain Fabien Stein laced each phase | | | | abandon walking for a gentle ride through the city. |
| of the journey with fascinating historical | | | | The glorious Benedictine Abbey at Melk is vast |
| perspectives and good fun. | | | | and loaded with treasures. The single |
| Cruising also allows for the comfort and ease of | | | | disappointment - it's now a co-ed school run by |
| not having to pack and unpack and finding | | | | the monks who leave distillation of the splendid |
| accommodation while visiting various destinations. | | | | Benedictine liqueur to their colleagues in Italy. No |
| Best of all were the shore excursions - with a | | | | free samples! The town is made for walking - |
| qualified local guide or on our own. Often there | | | | cobblestoned streets lined with 16th century |
| was time for both - getting the lay of the land | | | | houses and restaurant/taverns. The port for |
| with a guide then wandering off for leisurely | | | | Vienna is a hefty bus ride out of town but the old |
| shopping or new discoveries. | | | | city continues to deliver its kitschy style of |
| Long before expressways and airports, Europe's | | | | romance amid baroque buildings that include the |
| mighty rivers were its highways and on their | | | | Hofburg Palace, the Vienna Opera House and St. |
| banks major cities flourished. And because they | | | | Stephen's Cathedral. A small group of Vienna choir |
| relied on the river for both business and | | | | boys provided a brief concert. |
| transportation, the city gates tended to face the | | | | More accessible is Bratislava, capital of Slovakia |
| river. That's the huge appeal of the river cruise - | | | | where a whirlwind tour led us along steep streets |
| the ship docks just steps from the medieval | | | | below the 13th century Bratislava Castle, past the |
| heart of the city, where winding streets lead to | | | | gothic St. Martin's Cathedral and along |
| ancient walls, fortresses, castles, cathedrals and | | | | pedestrian-only streets of smart shops and |
| quaint shops. | | | | tempting cafes. |
| Our Danube idyll took us from Nuremberg to | | | | Final stop, Budapest, another revelation as we |
| Budapest with stops at Regensberg, Strasbourg, | | | | explored the twin cities of Buda and Pest with |
| Melk, Vienna and Bratislava. | | | | their thermal spas, vast parks and splendid |
| Nuremberg and Regensburg are two exquisite | | | | buildings. The city market is a huge shopping |
| neighbours along the Danube, very similar at first | | | | emporium while Andrassy Boulevard, blessed with |
| glance thanks to their ornate old buildings, cobbled | | | | more than 30 theatres, is called the Broadway of |
| streets and medieval touches. But there's a huge | | | | Budapest. But Budapest's crowning glory is the |
| difference - Nuremberg is a 'new' city. During a | | | | magnificent Parliament Building, overlooking the |
| fierce one-hour Allied air attack in January, 1945, | | | | Danube, a gingerbread confection of marble, gilt |
| some 90 per cent of Nuremberg's medieval | | | | and stained glass, where the crown jewels are |
| centre was destroyed. But the city rose again, | | | | stored. |
| almost immediately rebuilt stone by stone to an | | | | The all-inclusive nature of the Danube cruises |
| exact replica of its old self. | | | | makes for easy budgeting. All meals and |
| Noted for gingerbread and succulent little roasted | | | | entertainment and most shore excursions are |
| sausages, Nuremberg is also a paradise for lovers | | | | included. The passenger list is a pleasant mix of |
| of fine craft. In the shadow of the ancient city | | | | North Americans and Europeans, predominantly |
| wall, the Craftsmen's Courtyard is a collection of | | | | Germans, but most crew and staff speak several |
| workshops and stores selling the works of 13 | | | | languages, including English. |
| craftsmen, including fine pottery, exquisite | | | | |