Restaurant Review - The Trouble With Harry

I visited a newly opened restaurant the otherfire pit on the patio was replaced by a cozy
night. Something I rarely do so soon after thefireplace in the dining room instead and there
paint has dried. I'll often wait at least two weekswere some very nice hanging lamps scattered
before trying a new place. In this case, I shouldaround. But it very much feels like an unfinished
have stuck to my habit. Now this isn't a hard andpiece of art. I hope more will be added in time to
fast rule of mine. Lord knows I have very fewcomplete the feel of an inviting American
hard and fast rules. But the lead time a restaurantrestaurant. The David Shea design was all too
needs before I walk through the door is one thatexpected.
is worth sticking to.The most unsettling aspect of the evening was
Two weeks is usually enough time for most ofthe disconnect between the menu and the venue.
the embarrassing bugs a new restaurant canHarry's was billed in the pre-opening hype as an
have to be worked out of the system. You knowhomage to the American bar and supper club.
its usually things like under trained cooks turningFirst of all, when did that style or genre of
out poorly prepared food or overwhelmedrestaurant leave our planet that it now needs an
servers forgetting the bare essentials likeinterpreted homage? And secondly why not just
silverware and napkins. A fortnight is also enoughfill the menu with straightforward, well prepared
time for managers to stop feeling the need toAmerican classics. Sure its ok to update a few to
train by reprimand within earshot of the guests.modern ingredients and use stylistic modern
But my bad...It seems I should have given Harry'spresentations. After all why hire one of the best
Food and Cocktails a little more time. Becausecooks in the Twin Cities to command your
with the exception of having to experience thekitchen and not let him go where his humor leads
horrendous food under trained cooks will forcehim. Steven Brown is talented, adventurous and
upon a guest, everything else was pretty muchhas the right amount of P.T. Barnum in him to
on schedule. The moment I walked into Harry'smostly pull off what he has printed on the simple
Food and Cocktails, I felt like I had been thereKraft paper menu. But the disconnect comes in
before. It wasn't exactly the restaurant nightmarethe owners/managers ability to train the staff to
every service worker has had at one time orserve the food with same sense of irreverence it
another. But it was pretty close.was created. There's also a problem with how
Friday night was also the night another Harry wascomplex some of the dishes feel against such an
making his seventh and final appearance in a highlyunfinished decor. The menu has all the right words
awaited book being released at midnight. The kidand names...but not all lived to the promise and
in me had already made plans to wait by the doorfew even seemed downright out of place.
for my pre-ordered copy of "The DeathlyFrench Breakfast Radishes and Sauteed Arugula
Hallows" to be delivered by mail the next morning.holding court next to Cole Slaw and Creamed
(Not by owl as it really should be) So I wasSweet Corn are just a few examples of that
relaxed and open to let the jaded restaurateur indisconnect. The menu has a great selection of
me become awash in a similar level deliciousburgers served with crunchy ultra thin fries in little
anxiety while sitting at the bar of Harry's Foodfast food style fry bags. Other simple fare like
and Cocktails.Roast Chicken basted with garlic and herbs and
You know what it can be like when your seatedthe requisite Fish Fry on Friday night occupy a
in a bar or dining room that gives you a certainproper place on the bill. But the Fried Artichokes
feeling that you made the right decision. And thencame too few and swimming in too much
when the food and drinks arrive your intuitions"Parmesan Dip" and the House Cured Salmon
are confirmed by a confident friendly staffSalad was bland and seemed better suited to a
delivering deliciousness on every plate and inclassier home.
every glass. Well It never fully happened. ThereI guess what really got to me was the use of
were some great things coming out of thebrown Kraft paper for all the menus. It was just
kitchen...but it was all upstaged by inept service,too hip. Hipper than a place called Harry's needs to
too visible, and audible, management and a roombe.
that was too simple in design and lacking a levelIn his 1954 black comedy, "The Trouble With
of warmth.Harry", Alfred Hitchcock had a lot of fun trying to
David Shea was hired by owners Dwight Bonewellkeep a dead body buried. It seemed that
and Adam Smith to design a room that was toeveryone in that small New England town not only
reflect the roots of American dining. In fact,had a reason to kill Harry, but at the same time
Harry's is named to honor Bonewell's latekept digging him up for a host of hilarious reasons.
grandfather, Harry Snyder, who was a chef atHarry's Food and Cocktails won't be buried
several legendary St. Paul spots. And with only aanytime soon, I hope. But it still has time to make
little whimsy, a Grain Belt beer bottle chandelier,a few course corrections without having to dig it
the room lacks style. Granted it is airier andup first.
brighter than the previous occupant Nochee. The