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Hello From Chicago - Part 5 - A Visit To The Pullman Historic District

Chicago, Arlington House, Sunday, October 23,worker rebellion. Criticized and scorned,
2005,  6:25  amPullman  died  a  bitter  man  in  1897.
After being appropriately prepped as a resultIn 1898, the Illinois Supreme Court ordered
of our visit to the Chicago Cultural Centerthe Pullman Company to sell the
we decided to head off yesterday to visit thenon-industrial land in the neighborhood to
Pullman Historic District, a plannedits inhabitants, determining that the Pullman
industrial and residential community datingPalace Car Company did not have the proper
back  to  the 1880s, on Chicago's South Side.authority to provide nonmanufacturing
services such as renting property. Finally,
In order to get there we took the red lineresidents  could  buy  their  homes.
all the way to the end and then connected
onto the 111 bus. What was very interestingRobert T. Lincoln, the son of President
to note was that the population on Chicago'sLincoln, became head of the company after
south side is predominantly black, as much ofPullman's death and simplified its name to
the black population from the US South hadthe Pullman Company. The Pullman Company
migrated northwards after the 2nd World War.continued to produce its famous cars at 111th
Actually Chicago was known as one of the mostStreet and Cottage Grove Avenue. But with the
racially segregated cities, and today, withexplosion of automobile ownership, rail
the demolition of many of the bleak urbanpassenger traffic went into rapid decline. In
housing projects, the city is attempting to1957, Pullman Incorporated closed its plant
create more integration between its black andin  the  neighborhood.
white  population.
Only three years later, the city of Chicago
The Pullman Historic District is theincluded Pullman on a list of "blighted and
manifestation of a very interesting socialdeteriorating areas" that required clearance
experiment: It was built between 1880 andand redevelopment. Residents responded by
1884 as a planned model industrial town byforming the Pullman Civic Organization and
George M. Pullman for the Pullman Palace Carbegan working to gain landmark status. The
Company. George Pullman (1831 to 1897)Historic Pullman Foundation, which formed in
arrived on the scene with a design for the1973, helps ensure the area's preservation
Pullman sleeping carriage which he originallyand restoration by sponsoring various events
developed to carry the dead body of Abrahamsuch as neighborhood walking tours, annual
Lincoln to his funeral. As a result thehouse tours, Sunday brunch at the Florence
Pullman Sleeping Car Company was establishedHotel, and presentations at the Pullman
and a whole town was built around theVisitor  Center.
business  and  named  after  its  originator.
In many ways the housing development was
We went to the Visitor Center and saw anahead of its time. Each building, most of
18-minute movie that described George Pullmanthem townhouses, had gas and water, complete
and his ambitious plans for his developmentsanitary facilities and abundant quantities
of a model community, a total environment,of sunlight and fresh air, which was a rarity
that he intended to be superior to thatat that time, when the working class was
available to the working class elsewhere. Bymostly housed in squalid tenements.
so doing, he hoped to avoid strikes, attractOriginally the town of Pullman housed about
the most skilled workers and attain greater12,000 people while today it still has a
productivity as a result of the better healthpopulation of about 2,000, with an ethnically
and  spirit  of  his  employees.and  economically  mixed  background.
To achieve his vision, George Pullman hiredOther famous buildings on the Pullman grounds
Solon S. Beaman, landscape architect Nathaninclude the Hotel Florence, named after
F. Barrett and civil engineer, BenzettePullman's favourite daughter. It opened in
Williams. The town was constructed by Pullman1881 as a hospitality showcase for visitors
employees, using local red clay from Laketo George Pullman's perfect town and
Calumet and component parts that wereoriginally had 50 rooms, a dining room, a
produced in the Pullman factory. This projectbilliard room, a parlor and the only bar in
is one of the first examples of industrialPullman. The Historic Pullman Foundation
technology and mass production in large-scalemanaged to save the hotel from demolition and
housing. The town was a complete plannedtoday the hotel is closed to the public while
community and included schools, a library andit is undergoing a capital improvement
hotel  all  run  by  the  company.program to restore it for use with the State
Historic  Site.
Pullman's large Arcade building (now
demolished and the present location of theThe Pullman Clock Tower and Administration
Visitor Center) featured a restaurant, aBuilding was built in 1880 for the executive
bank, a library, a post office, a theater,offices of the Pullman Palace Car Company, at
and numerous shops. It was a forerunner ofthe time one of the most beautiful industrial
the modern shopping center. The town wascomplexes in the United States. In 1998 the
completely self-contained. Pullman residentsClock Tower and Administration Building were
enjoyed the manmade Lake Vista and plenty ofseriously damaged by a fire set by an
parks and promenades, features typicallyarsonist. Since then the building has been
missing from Chicago's working-classstabilized and the restored Clock Tower was
neighbourhoods.put back on just a few days before our visit.
Future use of the site is currently being
The town of Pullman was a model of financialdebated by a task force institute by Chicago
efficiency. Pullman demanded that the companyMayor  Daley  and  Illinois  Governor  Ryan.
return an 8-percent profit and the town
return a 6-percent profit. A huge engineAnother interesting building located on the
pumped sewage from the town to a nearbyPullman Historic District is the Queen
Pullman-owned farm, where it was used asAnne-style Market Hall which was built in
fertilizer for produce that would be sold1881. The Market provided a venue for fresh
back  in  the  town.fruits, meats and other goods. The original
market was destroyed by fire in 1892 and a
George Pullman maintained ultimate controlnew market was built on the existing
over the town, even restricting workers'foundation. The market is surrounded by four
access to alcohol, as the Hotel Florence onlycolonnaded circular apartment buildings that
sold alcohol to out-of-town visitors.were built with the new Market Hall in 1893.
Resentment towards this paternalistic despotUnfortunately the Market Hall Building was
started to build. Misfortune struck with thedestroyed by fire in 1973 and today it awaits
decline of the Pullman car's success whichrestoration.
forced George to slash wages. Workers
responded with a strike, fuelled by Pullman'sThe Greenstone Church, located centrally in
failure to reduce grocery costs and rent, butthe Pullman Historic District, has an
George simply fired them. The situationexterior facade of serpentine stone quarried
deteriorated as railway workers refused toin Pennsylvania. The sanctuary is unchanged
handle Pullman cars and President Clevelandwith the exception of the chancel
had to intervene, sending federal troops toarrangements. All of the cherry wood is
the scene. The workers were forced to signoriginal. Today the church is still occupied
documentation declaring that they wouldn'tby  a  Methodist  congregation.
join  a  union.
The visit to the Pullman Historic District
Although the strike collapsed, Georgewas very interesting. It taught us about a
Pullman's model for handling the "labourdifferent time of ultimate laissez-faire
problem" had failed. Pullman had pridedcapitalism, industrial growth and
himself on his paternalistic approach withimmigration, labour unrest, urban planning,
his workers, and he could not see how hisarchitecture and the ultimate failure of a
heavy-handed methods had resulted in thisrather unique social experiment.



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